On the outskirts of Dili, near the village of Tibar, a smoldering rubbish dump is picked through daily by people living in extreme poverty. Dump trucks arrive throughout the morning, bringing waste from the nation’s capital. Timor-Leste is one of the poorest countries in the region, and as such, services such as waste management are underdeveloped. Once the waste is dumped, villagers from the neighbouring area – including elderly men and women, and children – rush to seek out the most valuable commodities. Items such as tin cans and metal sheeting are most collectable, as are old clothes and items made from wire, to be used or on-sold at local markets. None of the rubbish is sorted, and instead is set on fire. Old gas cylinders and deodorant cans frequently explode; picking through the rubbish is a dangerous task. Fumes from burning rubber and plastics generate a toxic, acrid smoke which continues to be a health hazard.
Despite NGO efforts – such as the now defunct Small Steps Project – little is being done to address the hazardous conditions. Instead, pickers wear a t-shirt wrapped around their face for protection; but even a couple of hours spent at the rubbish dump (as this photographer did) resulted in smoke filled lungs and a pungent stench seeped through clothing.
The pickers are also in competition with animals such as pigs, cows and dogs, who feed off scraps of food buried in the waste. Older parts of the 7 kilometre-square rubbish dump are picked over time and again, as people search for any item that might be of value. Yet in a nation where the average working wage is around US$150 a month, life for people picking at the dump – despite what might be found – continues to be a dire struggle. Those who manage to find something of value – such as tin sheeting – either stack it on their designated pile of goods, or leave promptly for one the many markets in Dili or the rural areas. Meanwhile, the leaders of Timor-Leste scramble to keep the nation’s economy afloat, which is almost solely reliant on finite oil and gas deposits off the southern coast.
Yet many in the fledgling nation of Timor-Leste – especially those on the outskirts of Dili and in the rural areas – are reliant entirely on subsistence farming and hand-to-mouth trade at local markets. With more than 60 percent of Timor-Leste’s population under the age of 24, young people face an uncertain future. Crucial decisions are being made by the nation’s leaders, most of whom are survivors of the resistance movement against the Indonesian occupation of 1975 – 1999.
Yet the majority of the population, who were born since independence in 2002, might rightly question what the future holds for their struggling country. Until economic independence and growth can be realized, for those people picking at the rubbish dump each morning, life will continue to be an everyday scramble for survival. Ali MC is a writer and photographer based in Melbourne, Australia. He holds a Masters in Human Rights Law and has travelled extensively, shooting predominantly in 35mm and medium format film. Dili, Timor-Leste Words and photographs by Ali MC. All photos shot on 35mm film. Website www.alimc.com.au Instagram @alimcphotos
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